Here is the short answer: water in the early morning, run shorter cycles with soak breaks, fix pressure and coverage, switch sprays to rotary nozzles where you can, put beds and trees on drip, audit every season, and winterize with a proper blowout. If you are setting up or tuning a system in our climate, plan for 2 to 3 days per week in summer, less in spring and fall, and never at midday. If you want a hand with setup or service, this local resource for Colorado Springs irrigation can help you get it dialed in.
What makes Colorado Springs watering different
High altitude sun. Low humidity. Wind that dries the top inch of soil fast. Storms that dump rain on one side of town and miss the other. That is a normal week here. Many yards sit on compacted, alkaline clay that sheds water if you push it too hard. A system that works in a wetter place often wastes water here.
I grew up thinking more minutes meant greener grass. In Colorado Springs, more minutes without a plan usually means runoff and brown spots. The soil cannot absorb fast bursts from standard sprays. You slow it down and let it soak. It feels almost too cautious at first.
Set the system to water deeply and less often, then use cycle and soak to prevent runoff on our clay-heavy soils.
Before you do anything big, grab a screwdriver and a cup of water. Push the screwdriver into your turf. If it stops at an inch, the soil is compacted or dry. If it slides to 3 or 4 inches, you are closer to the sweet spot. Simple checks like this keep you honest.
Design choices that pay off in our climate
Good design is boring in the best way. Heads matched to the area. Pressure set for the device. No mixed head types on the same zone. All that stuff you have heard, but maybe skipped.
Match the sprinkler to the space
Use rotors for large open turf. Use rotary nozzles for smaller turf. Keep standard sprays for tiny strips only if runoff is not a problem. Switch flower beds and shrubs to drip. Trees should be on their own low-flow zone, with emitters placed at the dripline, not at the trunk.
Hydrozones that make sense
Group plants with similar water needs. Put sunny south-facing turf on one zone, shaded turf on another. Beds with natives on a separate drip zone. If you mix shade and sun on the same zone, your schedule will always be wrong for one or the other.
Aim for head-to-head coverage
Uniformity matters here because wind and heat punish thin spots. You want each head to throw water to the next head. That overlap flattens out highs and lows. If coverage is patchy, you will chase dry spots with longer runtimes, which wastes water and still leaves hot patches.
Do not mix rotors, sprays, and rotary nozzles on one valve. Different devices put out water at different rates, which makes any schedule wrong.
Pressure control is not optional
City pressure swings. Some homes see 75 to 100 PSI at the tap. Sprays are happiest near 30 to 45 PSI, rotors near 45 to 55 PSI, and many drip zones near 20 to 30 PSI. Without regulation, misting steals water from the soil and sends it into the air. Use a pressure regulator at the valve and pressure regulated heads if possible.
| Irrigation device | Target pressure at head (PSI) | Typical application rate (in/hr) | Best use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Standard spray nozzle | 30 to 45 | 1.2 to 1.8 | Small turf or tight strips |
| Rotary nozzle (MP style) | 40 to 50 | 0.35 to 0.55 | Small to medium turf with slope or clay |
| Rotor head | 45 to 55 | 0.4 to 0.7 | Large open turf |
| Drip emitters | 20 to 30 | Low, point source | Beds, shrubs, trees |
I like to check dynamic pressure at a head with a simple pitot gauge. It takes 2 minutes and removes guesswork. If you cannot get pressure into range, a regulator at the valve and PRS heads do the job.
Scheduling that fits Colorado Springs weather
July is our peak month. Turf can lose around 0.15 to 0.25 inches of water per day. Windy days lean higher. Your schedule should match that loss, but not in one heavy soak. Short cycles with breaks let clay accept water that would otherwise run off.
Cycle and soak basics
- Set 2 or 3 short cycles per day on watering days.
- Use 30 to 60 minute soak breaks between cycles.
- Drip usually runs longer, but less often.
Time of day matters. Water before sunrise, often between 4am and 8am. Midday water can evaporate fast. Evening watering can increase disease risk on turf, at least in thick bluegrass. Morning is a solid middle path.
Aim for early morning starts, short cycles, and total weekly minutes that match plant needs without puddling or runoff.
Seasonal starting points
These are starting points, not rules. Adjust for wind, slope, shade, and nozzle type.
- April: 1 day per week. Rotors 2 cycles of 6 to 8 minutes. Rotary nozzles 2 cycles of 8 to 10 minutes. Drip beds 30 to 45 minutes once per week.
- May: 2 days per week. Rotors 2×8 to 10. Rotary nozzles 2×10 to 12. Drip 45 to 60 minutes once or twice per week.
- June to mid August: 3 days per week. Rotors 2×10 to 12. Rotary nozzles 2×12 to 16. Drip 60 to 90 minutes once or twice per week.
- Late August to September: 2 days per week. Cut run times by 20 to 30 percent.
- October: 1 day per week, if at all. Watch overnight lows.
I know those ranges look wide. They need to be. A shaded north lawn can be fine at the low end while a south slope with wind needs the high end. You dial it in with observation.
Smart controllers and sensors that actually help
A weather-based controller that adjusts runtimes to local conditions saves water and time. Pick a model that pulls data for our area, allows cycle and soak, and can use flow, rain, and freeze sensors. Set it once, then tweak monthly. In my experience, the biggest gains come from the first setup and from fixing pressure, not from the fancy screen.
Flow sensors add real value. If a lateral line breaks at 3am, the controller can shut that zone off. Less water lost, less mess. Rain and freeze sensors pay for themselves during shoulder seasons when storms roll in. Some local utilities offer rebates on smart controllers and rotary nozzles. Check the latest program details before you buy.
Backflow, winterization, and protection
Backflow assemblies protect your household water. Many homes have a pressure vacuum breaker or reduced pressure assembly located outside near the shutoff. Keep it above grade and protected from freezing. Insulating covers help in spring and fall, but you still need to fully drain and blow out the system before hard freezes.
Plan Colorado Springs sprinkler winterization in October or early November, before lows dip into the teens. If you are a hands-on person, you can do the steps. I still think hiring a pro makes sense, mostly because a bad blowout can crack valves and heads.
Basic winterization steps
- Shut off the irrigation water supply at the main shutoff.
- Open the drain or bleed valves at low points.
- Connect an air compressor to the blowout port.
- Blow out each zone one at a time, using low pressure and volume to avoid damage. For many residential systems, 50 to 60 PSI at the manifold is plenty. Stop when mist turns to light vapor.
- Leave test cocks at the backflow slightly open for winter.
If any of that sounds unclear, book a sprinkler blowout Colorado Springs service and watch once. Next year, you might do it yourself. Or not. I sometimes choose convenience over pride when it is November and cold.
Maintenance that keeps the system honest
I like checklists. They catch small leaks before they become big bills.
Spring startup
- Turn on water slowly to avoid water hammer.
- Pressurize one zone at a time, look for geysers, weeping fittings, or misting heads.
- Clean or replace clogged filters on drip zones.
- Flush drip laterals before capping.
- Set a conservative schedule, then monitor for a week.
Midseason audit
- Run each zone for 2 minutes. Fix obvious mis-aimed heads.
- Check arc and radius. Replace broken or worn nozzles.
- Measure pressure at a head. Add regulation if needed.
- Look for leaks near valve boxes and along laterals.
- Confirm the controller has correct date, time, and program.
Fall shutdown
- Shorten runtimes as nights cool.
- Plan the blowout before the first hard freeze.
- Record any repairs to handle in spring.
A 10-minute walk test per month catches most issues: mis-aimed heads, clogged filters, low pressure, or a dripline nicked by edging.
Common mistakes that waste water here
None of these are dramatic. They are small and annoying. Fixing them saves real water.
- Mixing head types on one zone. The schedule can never be right for all heads.
- Overwatering shady areas to save sunny areas. Split the zone instead.
- Running sprays too long on clay. Use rotary nozzles or cycle and soak.
- Ignoring pressure. Misting means water in the air, not in the soil.
- Spraying hardscape. Re-aim heads, change nozzles, or adjust arcs.
- Skipping drip filtration and pressure regulation.
- Watering at night during warm weeks. It can encourage turf disease.
Soil, aeration, and mulch
Soil is the silent partner. If your soil is compacted, water sits on top and runs to the curb. Core aeration in spring helps water reach the root zone. For beds, add compost, but not too much. Two to three inches is often fine. You are not trying to create rich farm soil. You are trying to help water move into the root zone.
Mulch keeps moisture in. Two to three inches around shrubs and perennials slows evaporation and evens temperature. Keep mulch away from the base of the trunk on trees. A small ring of air around the trunk is safer.
Plant choices that reduce water use without losing curb appeal
You do not need to rip out all turf. You can reduce the square footage and keep the parts you use. Switch hot strips along sidewalks to beds or pavers. Choose turf that fits your plans. Kentucky bluegrass looks nice but drinks more. Fine fescue and tall fescue mixes handle partial shade and need less water. Buffalograss and blue grama can work in sunny spots if you can accept a different look and slower spring green-up.
For beds, pick region-friendly plants. Penstemon, salvia, yarrow, catmint, some ornamental grasses, and many native shrubs do well here with drip. I am not anti-turf, I just think turf should earn its space. A small dead-end strip that takes 15 minutes per week to mow might be better as rock or pavers.
Hardscaping and irrigation together
Hardscape changes your water plan. A flagstone path breaks up spray patterns. A new patio reduces turf area and changes slope. Plan your irrigation right alongside Colorado Springs hardscaping work. Cap unneeded heads. Add drip for containers. Reroute lines before the concrete truck arrives. I have seen patios poured over active lines, which is a headache nobody needs.
Pressure, pipe size, and flow basics
Good hydraulics prevent low head drainage, weak coverage, and random dry spots.
- Size laterals for flow. Many homes use 1 inch mainline and 3/4 inch laterals. Long runs at 3/4 inch with high flow can create big pressure loss.
- Keep rotors around 8 to 10 GPM per zone per 3/4 inch lateral, or step up pipe size.
- Use check valves or PRS heads on slopes to prevent low head drainage.
- Use separate valves for rotors, rotary nozzles, sprays, and drip.
If any of this feels abstract, a quick test helps. Place three tuna cans in a triangle within one zone. Run it for 15 minutes. If one can fills twice as much as another, you have a uniformity problem. Fix coverage or pressure first, then adjust minutes.
Cost and water math, without the hype
Let me be direct. The cheapest gallon of water is the one you do not run. Replacing a dozen standard sprays with rotary nozzles can cut application rate by roughly two thirds. That slows water so clay has time to absorb it. If your spray zone ran 10 minutes per cycle, a rotary nozzle zone might run 20 to 30 minutes to deliver the same depth, but with far less runoff. The net use often drops, and the grass looks better. Feels backward until you try it.
Smart controllers help, but they are not magic. If coverage is poor or pressure is wrong, no controller can fix that. I know that sounds obvious, yet many of us, me included, have tried to schedule our way out of a hardware problem.
How to pick a sprinkler company in Colorado Springs
There are plenty of options. A few filters make the choice easier.
- Ask for proof of insurance and backflow certification.
- Look for experience with pressure regulation, rotary nozzles, and drip design.
- Ask how they handle winterization and what compressor setup they use.
- Request a written quote and pictures of comparable jobs.
- See if they offer spring tune-ups, midseason audits, and fall blowouts.
Search terms like sprinkler repair Colorado Springs, sprinkler blowout Colorado Springs, or sprinkler company Colorado Springs can surface local pros. Read recent reviews that mention punctuality and clean work. A good tech will also tell you when not to spend money, which is a subtle sign of honesty.
Quick fixes you can do this weekend
- Re-aim heads so arcs stop at the edge of hardscape.
- Swap a few worst-case sprays to rotary nozzles in runoff-prone zones.
- Add a pressure regulated spray body in any misting zone.
- Install a simple rain sensor if your controller supports it.
- Move tree emitters out to the dripline, add one or two more if needed.
Small steps add up. I like starting with one zone as a pilot. See how it behaves for two weeks. Then copy what works across other zones.
Sample weekly schedules for summer
Use these as templates. Adjust to your soil, slope, and sun.
| Zone type | Days per week | Cycles per day | Minutes per cycle | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rotors on open turf | 3 | 2 | 10 to 12 | Add a third cycle on hot, windy weeks |
| Rotary nozzles on mixed turf | 3 | 2 | 12 to 16 | Great for slopes and clay |
| Standard sprays on small strips | 3 | 3 | 4 to 5 | Short cycles prevent runoff |
| Drip on shrub beds | 1 to 2 | 1 | 60 to 90 | Use pressure and filtration |
| Drip on trees | Every 7 to 14 days | 1 | 90 to 120 | Place emitters at dripline |
Watch the lawn after a change. Walk it in socks. If your heel picks up mud, back off. If it feels crunchy by day two, bump minutes slightly. It is not rocket science. It is repetition and observation.
Troubleshooting weird lawn spots
Brown donut around a green center on a rotor head area suggests a clogged nozzle or weak pressure at the far reach. Swap the nozzle and check PSI. A triangle of dry patches often means a missing head or no head-to-head coverage. A strip of green along the sidewalk with dry turf beside it might be a broken lateral under the walk that is feeding the low spot only.
If a zone never looks right, it might be mixed sun and shade, or sprays mixed with rotors. Consider splitting the zone or standardizing the head type. You do not have to replace the whole system. One valve at a time is still progress.
Regulations and practical tips
Watering rules can change from time to time. Many seasons limit outdoor watering to certain days and hours to reduce midday losses. Early morning windows are usually encouraged. Backflow assemblies often need periodic testing. Check with your water provider for current requirements. It takes a phone call, and you will avoid a surprise.
Why drip is a friend in Colorado Springs
Drip puts water at the roots and avoids wind drift. It cuts evaporation and keeps foliage dry. If you are new to drip, start simple. Use 2 GPH emitters for shrubs, 0.5 to 1 GPH for smaller perennials, and a ring of emitters for trees at the dripline. Place emitters to match plant size, not just one at the trunk. Flush the line at the start of the season and add a filter and regulator at the valve.
A quick anecdote from a shaded yard
I worked with a small north-facing yard that turned to moss every July. The owner kept adding minutes. The fix was not more water. We split the zone from the sunny side, lowered minutes for the shade, and added a short mid-morning cycle for the sunny strip only. Greener grass, less water. Pretty simple, and yet we stared at the problem for months. Sometimes fresh eyes help.
When to replace vs repair
If a zone has mixed heads, poor coverage, and old leaky fittings, a refresh can be cheaper long term than piecemeal repairs. If the piping is sound and the layout is decent, small fixes and pressure regulation may be enough. I know I am contradicting myself a bit. Both paths can be right. The clue is how many band-aids you have already used on one zone.
Small upgrades with big upside
- Pressure regulated spray bodies to stop misting.
- Rotary nozzles to slow application on clay and slopes.
- Weather-based controller with cycle and soak support.
- Flow sensor for leak detection.
- Drip conversions for beds and tree rings.
A note on water bills and tiers
Many water bills step up in price as usage climbs. Cutting summer use keeps you in lower tiers. If your bill spikes in July, look for a leak first. A lateral line break can run all night. Your controller may be watering while you sleep, so the leak is easy to miss. A monthly meter check helps. Shut off all indoor water, then watch the meter. If it moves, you have a leak somewhere.
What to watch after a storm
We get fast storms that drop a quick inch in an hour. Your soil cannot absorb all of it at once. A day after the storm, it might be dry on top but still moist deeper. Use a soil probe or long screwdriver and check depth before turning the system back on. Let the root zone guide you, not the surface color alone.
Pro tips that sound small but work
- Keep grass at 3 to 3.5 inches in summer to shade the soil.
- Water within 24 hours after aeration to push water into the holes.
- Use check valves on heads at the bottom of slopes to prevent puddles.
- Stagger start times so pressure stays stable across zones.
- Name zones in the controller by area, not number, so you know what you are changing.
When to call for help
If you suspect a break under pavement, a stuck valve, or a controller that behaves oddly, bring in a pro. A skilled tech can diagnose in an hour what might take a weekend of guesswork. Local providers who handle sprinkler repair Colorado Springs calls every day will have the parts and the pressure gauges in the truck. Sometimes that speed is worth it.
Questions and answers
How often should I water in July?
Start with 3 days per week. Use 2 short cycles per day on those days. Adjust up or down by watching the lawn 24 hours later. If footprints linger, add a few minutes. If you see runoff, shorten cycles and add a soak break.
When should I schedule a sprinkler blowout?
Plan it for October or early November before overnight lows settle below the teens. Many homeowners book sprinkler blowout Colorado Springs appointments a few weeks ahead to avoid the first cold snap rush.
Are smart controllers worth it here?
Yes, if you also fix pressure and coverage. The controller fine tunes runtimes as weather shifts. Without the hardware basics in place, savings will be limited.
What pressure should my system run?
At the head, sprays like 30 to 45 PSI, rotary nozzles 40 to 50, rotors 45 to 55, and drip 20 to 30. Use a regulator at each valve and consider pressure regulated heads.
Do I need to water trees in winter?
On dry, warm spells, yes. Water mid-day on a day above 40 degrees, once every 4 to 6 weeks, especially for young trees. Use a slow drip near the dripline and keep mulch in place.
Do I need to re-sod to save water?
No. You can keep turf in the spaces you use and convert the rest to beds, gravel, or pavers. Consider a phased plan tied to your Colorado Springs hardscaping updates so you are not doing the same work twice.
How do I pick a sprinkler company?
Ask for insurance, backflow credentials, and recent local references. Listen to how they talk about pressure, coverage, and drip. If they push minutes before fixing hardware, that is a red flag.
The simplest path to a lower water bill here is pressure control, better nozzles, smart scheduling, and a clean winterization. Do those four and you are ahead of most yards in town.