If you live in Colorado Springs, you need to winterize your sprinklers every fall so the water lines do not freeze, crack, and leave you with costly repairs in spring. That usually means shutting the system down, draining or blowing out the lines with compressed air, and protecting the backflow and valves. If you do not want to do it yourself, you can book a professional Colorado Springs sprinkler winterization service, but if you are a hands-on homeowner, you can handle most of it with some basic tools and a bit of care.
I will walk through how this works for a typical residential sprinkler system in Colorado Springs. I will keep it practical, try to explain why each step matters, and point out where you really should not cut corners.
Why winterization matters so much in Colorado Springs
Colorado Springs has cold nights, quick temperature swings, and plenty of days where it is warm in the afternoon and freezing again by midnight. That freeze and thaw cycle is tough on any water line that still has water inside it.
Here is what usually happens when a sprinkler system is not winterized.
- Water sits in the lines when the first hard freeze hits.
- Water expands as it turns to ice.
- PVC or poly pipes crack along weak points or at fittings.
- Backflow devices and valves split or deform.
- In spring, the system leaks underground, pressures drop, and zones stop working right.
If there is water in your sprinkler lines when it freezes, something in that system is at risk of cracking. The only real protection is to get the water out before regular hard freezes arrive.
I have seen people skip winterization after a mild fall, thinking they got lucky, and then the next year costs them hundreds of dollars when a surprise cold snap arrives early. It is not always dramatic. Sometimes the damage shows up slowly as small leaks or random wet spots in the yard that are hard to track down.
Winterization is not just about protecting pipes either. It also protects:
- The backflow preventer
- The manifold and valves
- Sprinkler heads and risers
- Pressure regulators and filters
Skipping it one year can undo years of care you have put into your yard and system. That sounds a bit heavy, but this is one of those things where a few simple steps every fall save a lot of money and stress later.
When to winterize sprinklers in Colorado Springs
There is no single date that works perfectly every year, but there are some good signals you can watch.
Typical timing window
Many homeowners in Colorado Springs winterize somewhere between late September and late October. Some wait until early November, but that starts to feel risky in some years.
A practical way to think about it:
- Start planning when overnight lows first reach the low 30s.
- Try to be finished before the first forecast night in the mid 20s or colder.
The sprinkler lines are usually 6 to 12 inches underground, so a single light frost might not hurt them right away. The problem is long freezes and repeated nights of cold, especially if the ground itself starts to freeze.
If the forecast shows several nights in a row below 28 degrees, treat that as your deadline. Do not wait for visible damage. When you see ice, it is already too late for the water that is trapped inside the pipes.
Signs your yard is ready for shutoff
Sometimes people hesitate to winterize because they feel like the lawn still needs water. That is fair, but grass in Colorado Springs starts going dormant in fall. A few signs your yard is ready for sprinkler shutdown:
- Growth has slowed and you are mowing less often.
- Daytime highs are mostly in the 50s and 60s.
- You are seeing more shade and less direct sun on large parts of the lawn.
You can always hand water a dry spot with a hose if you misjudge by a week. That is cheaper and easier than repairing broken lines in spring.
Know your system before you touch anything
Not all sprinkler systems are built the same way. Before you shut things down for winter, take a few minutes to understand what you have. That way you are not guessing when it really counts.
Main parts to identify
Walk through your yard and basement or crawl space and try to find these parts.
| Part | Where you usually find it | Why it matters for winterization |
|---|---|---|
| Main shutoff valve | Basement, crawl space, or buried valve box near foundation | Turns off water supply to the entire sprinkler system |
| Backflow preventer | On the exterior wall, near where the sprinkler line exits the house | Needs draining and protection from freezing |
| Drain valves | Next to backflow, in valve boxes, or at low spots in the yard | Let water escape from low parts of the system |
| Zones and valves | Valve boxes in yard, often near walks or under small covers | May trap water if not blown out or drained |
| Controller (timer) | Garage, basement, or mounted outside | Needs to be turned off or put into winter mode |
If any of these are unclear, it helps to take photos as you go. In spring, when you are trying to turn the system back on, those photos can save a lot of guesswork.
Manual drain, automatic drain, or blowout?
There are three main ways sprinkler systems are set up to get water out before winter. Your system might use one or a mix of these.
1. Manual drain systems
These systems have drain valves you open by hand at low spots and near the backflow to let water run out.
- You shut off the main water.
- Open drain valves with a screwdriver or by turning a small handle.
- Water flows out by gravity.
This is simple, but it is easy to miss a low spot. Also, trapped water behind a slight rise can still freeze.
2. Automatic drain systems
Some newer systems have small automatic drain valves at low points in each zone. When pressure drops, they open and let the water out on their own.
These help, but they are not perfect, especially if they clog or are not installed in the lowest possible spot. You still need to shut off the water, cycle the zones, and protect the backflow.
3. Blowout with compressed air
This is what most pros in Colorado Springs use. Compressed air pushes water out of the lines through the sprinkler heads.
- A compressor connects to the sprinkler line near the backflow or a dedicated blowout port.
- Each zone is turned on separately.
- Air flows until only a light mist or air comes out of the sprinklers.
This method, done correctly, removes far more water than gravity alone. It also reaches parts of the system that gravity drains may miss.
For Colorado Springs, an air blowout is often the safest method. Gravity drains and automatic drains help, but pressurized air clears leftover pockets of water that might still freeze on a very cold night.
If you are not comfortable with compressed air, you do not have to do it alone. Many homeowners shut off water themselves, then pay a pro just for the blowout step.
What you need before you start
You do not need any special skills, but you do need a few basic items. You also need to be patient. Rushing this job can damage the system or leave water behind.
Basic tools and supplies
- Flathead and Phillips screwdriver
- Adjustable wrench or pliers
- Bucket or small container for catching water
- Insulation covers for backflow or external piping (or old towels and tape)
- Compressed air source, if you are doing a blowout
Choosing a compressor for blowout
This part is where people often get nervous, which is fair. Wrong pressure can damage valves or sprinkler heads.
For most residential systems:
- Target air pressure: 40 to 60 PSI for many PVC systems, often a bit lower for drip lines.
- Do not exceed what your system is rated for. If you are unsure, stay on the lower end.
- A portable contractor compressor can work if it has enough air volume (CFM), but you may need to pause between zones to let it recover.
Some homeowners borrow or rent a large compressor once per year. Others decide that once they add up the time, learning curve, and cost, paying a pro for a yearly blowout is easier. That is not laziness, that is just a trade-off.
Step-by-step: How to winterize your sprinklers
Now we can walk through a typical winterization process for a home in Colorado Springs. Your system may have quirks, so adjust as needed, but this covers the main steps.
Step 1: Turn off the main sprinkler water supply
Find the main shutoff that controls water to the sprinkler system. This is often near where the sprinkler line branches off from your main house line.
- Turn the valve to the off position. This may be a ball valve with a lever or a gate valve with a round handle.
- If you have a ball valve, the handle should be perpendicular to the pipe when off.
- Do not force a stuck valve. If it is very stiff, you might break it. Move it gently back and forth if needed.
Once the valve is off, no new water should reach the sprinklers.
Step 2: Turn off the sprinkler controller
Go to your timer or smart controller.
- Set it to “Off” or “Rain mode” or “Winter” depending on what it offers.
- If you prefer, unplug it for the season, but you may lose programming if it has no backup.
Do not leave it running, or you might accidentally power zones while you are blowing out lines.
Step 3: Relieve pressure and drain the backflow
Most homes in Colorado Springs have a backflow preventer on the outside of the house. It usually has test cocks (small valves with slots for a screwdriver) and shutoff valves.
- Locate the two shutoff valves on the backflow and turn them to the off position.
- Use a screwdriver to open the small test cocks slowly, one by one, to let water and air escape.
- Place a bucket underneath if you do not want water pooling near the foundation.
Water will dribble out at first, then slow down. Leave the test cocks at a 45 degree open position for winter so any leftover water can expand without breaking the brass housing.
If you are unsure which way to turn them, very slightly move them and see if water starts to flow. Do not open them fully all at once under pressure.
Step 4: Open manual drain valves, if present
If your system has manual drain points, they are usually in valve boxes or near the lowest point of the yard.
- Open each drain and let water drain out.
- Leave them open for several minutes, especially for long runs.
- Close them gently once the water stops flowing, unless your installer told you to leave them open all winter.
Some people like to leave caps slightly loose to allow for expansion. If you do this, just remember in spring to tighten everything before turning water back on.
Step 5: Set up for an air blowout
If you are going to use compressed air, connect it at the proper point in your system. This is where many homeowners call a pro, because backflow devices and sprinkler pipes can be damaged by air that is too hot or too strong.
Basic outline:
- Check that the main sprinkler water supply is off.
- Connect the air hose to the blowout port (often a threaded fitting near the backflow or in a separate box).
- Set the regulator on the compressor to a safe PSI, generally in the 40 to 60 range for PVC. For drip zones, use lower pressure.
Do not run high-pressure air through a closed backflow unit or with valves in the wrong position. If you are not sure where to attach, stop and get help. Guessing is what damages systems.
Step 6: Blow out each zone one at a time
Now you will use the controller or manual valve controls to activate each zone while air flows in. This part takes patience and some judgment.
- Turn on zone 1 from the controller.
- Start the compressor so air begins moving into the system.
- Watch the sprinkler heads in that zone. At first, you will see water spray heavily, then a mix of water and air, then mostly mist, then air only.
- Let it run until the water is mostly gone. Do not run high pressure for long after that, or you could overheat the system.
- Turn off zone 1 and give the compressor a brief rest if needed.
- Repeat for each zone: 2, 3, 4, and so on.
If you have rotor heads (those turning sprinklers), they might keep spinning with mist for a while. You do not have to wait until they are perfectly dry. The goal is to remove pooled water, not every trace of moisture.
A common rule is to blow each zone until you see mostly air with a light mist, then stop. Long bursts of dry air at high pressure do not help and can stress components.
If the compressor struggles to keep up, just pause between zones. There is no prize for speed here. Slow and steady protects your equipment.
Step 7: Protect exposed parts for winter
Once the lines are drained and blown out, the last step is to protect any exposed pieces that still may hold some moisture.
- Wrap the backflow preventer and any exposed vertical piping with foam insulation or old towels and tape.
- Make sure any above-ground valves are covered but still accessible if needed.
- Do not seal parts so tightly that they cannot breathe at all; trapped moisture still needs space to expand.
Some homeowners buy those molded foam covers that fit over backflow devices. Others improvise with what they have on hand. Either way is fine as long as it keeps wind and direct cold off the metal parts.
Common mistakes Colorado Springs homeowners make
Every year there are a few patterns that come up again and again. You can avoid a lot of trouble just by being aware of them.
Waiting for the first deep freeze
Many people wait until after the first major cold front. By that time, shallow lines near walks and driveways might already have ice forming inside them. You might not see the damage until spring, when the cracks begin to leak.
Only draining part of the system
It is easy to drain the backflow and think the job is done. But there can still be water in:
- Zone piping in the yard
- Valve manifolds
- Drip system lines
- Low spots that did not drain by gravity
Try to create a habit. When you shut off the main water, you follow the full routine: controller, backflow, drains, blowout, then insulation.
Using too much air pressure
People sometimes think more air will get more water out. That is not always true. High pressure can crack fittings, damage heads, and even harm the backflow if connected poorly.
If you are unsure, lower pressure for longer is safer than high pressure for short bursts.
Forgetting the drip system
If you have drip lines for trees, shrubs, or beds, do not ignore them. They can hold water that freezes and splits the tubing or fittings. Many drip zones need lower air pressure, so treat them gently.
How to tell if winterization worked
You will not know for certain until spring. Still, you can look for a few signals right after you finish.
- No more water flows from drains or test cocks.
- Sprinklers only release short bursts of mist and then air during the final seconds of blowout.
- The backflow feels light when you tap it, not like it is filled with water.
In spring, signs that winterization went well include:
- Zones come on with normal pressure and coverage.
- No unusual pooling of water in the yard.
- No dripping or spraying from the backflow or valve boxes.
If you see several heads in one zone not rising, or hear water moving when the system is off, that is a sign of winter damage or another issue that needs repair.
DIY vs professional winterization
This is where opinions differ. Some homeowners like the hands-on work and feel better knowing exactly what was done. Others would rather schedule a yearly service and not think about it.
Reasons to do it yourself
- You enjoy yard maintenance and learning how systems work.
- You already own or can cheaply borrow the right compressor.
- You want to shut off the water and prep the system on your own schedule.
Reasons to hire a pro
- You do not want to risk damaging the backflow or valves.
- You are not confident about compressor settings or blowout ports.
- Your system is complex, with many zones and drip sections.
- You would rather pay a predictable yearly fee than buy gear and spend your own time.
There is no single right answer. I think if you are new to this, doing the shutoff and basic draining yourself, then watching a pro handle the blowout once, gives you a clear view of what is involved. After that, you can decide if it feels doable on your own next year.
Special cases: Sloped yards, older systems, and shared meters
Not every yard in Colorado Springs is a simple rectangle with flat ground and a new sprinkler design. Here are a few extra situations that make winterization a bit trickier.
Sloped yards
If your yard has a noticeable slope, water will try to gather at the lowest lines and heads. Gravity helps, but it can also create pockets in low corners.
- Make sure you identify the lowest valve boxes and drains.
- Watch those zones carefully during blowout and drain steps.
- You may need to spend slightly longer on zones that run along steep slopes.
Older or partially updated systems
Many homes have systems that were installed years ago, then updated in pieces. You might have a mix of old valves, newer zones, and different head types.
In these cases:
- Use the lower recommended air pressure, since older parts may be weaker.
- Pay attention to any zone that acts differently while blowing out, such as loud hissing, chattering, or no water appearing.
- Make a rough sketch of which zones connect to which areas to help next year.
Shared meters or HOA systems
Townhomes or some HOA neighborhoods share a water meter or have community sprinkler controls. You might only be able to access part of the system.
If that is your situation, you usually need to coordinate with the HOA or property manager. Trying to shut off or blow out one part of a shared system on your own can affect neighbors.
Spring startup and how it connects to winterization
This is a winter guide, but it helps to think a bit about spring. Good winterization makes spring startup easier and less stressful.
When warm weather comes back, a careful startup usually looks like this:
- Inspect backflow and valves visually before restoring water.
- Close any drains and test cocks that were left open or partly open.
- Turn on the main valve slowly, listening for strange sounds.
- Test each zone one at a time, watching for leaks or low pressure.
If you see a problem, it may connect back to a weak spot that winter exposed. Fixing it early in spring keeps water bills and yard damage low.
Frequently asked questions about sprinkler winterization in Colorado Springs
Do I really need to winterize every single year?
Yes. Some years might be milder, but you never really know which year will bring early or deep freezes. Skipping one season can undo several seasons of care. It is a yearly habit, like blowing out garden hoses or unhooking outdoor faucets.
Can I just shut off the water and not blow out the lines?
You can, but that leaves more water in the pipes than is safe for this climate. Shutting off the water stops new flow, but it does not remove water that is already in the lines. For Colorado Springs, a full approach with draining and usually a blowout is much safer.
What happens if I am late and it already froze once?
If there has only been a light freeze and daytime temps are warm again, your system might still be fine. You should winterize as soon as you can. If you see visible cracks, leaks, or your backflow is split, do not use the system again until it has been inspected and repaired.
Can I use my small home compressor for blowout?
Sometimes. A small compressor might not provide enough air volume for larger systems, which means you will spend a lot of time waiting for it to catch up. If you try it, keep the pressure low and be patient. For bigger yards or many zones, renting or hiring out the blowout often makes more sense.
Is it safe to cover the backflow completely?
You want to protect it from wind and direct exposure, but do not wrap it in plastic so tightly that moisture cannot escape at all. Insulated covers that breathe a bit are better than airtight bags. Think of it more as a coat than a sealed container.
What if I miss a zone during blowout?
If one zone stays full of water, that zone is at risk of winter damage. This is why it helps to use the controller to go through zones in order and check each area in the yard while air is running. If you think you skipped one, it is better to reconnect the compressor and blow it out late than to leave it full all winter.
How early is too early to winterize?
You can winterize as soon as your lawn does not need regular irrigation. Some people like to keep watering deep into fall, which is fine as long as you watch the forecast. If you finish by the time overnight lows start to sit near the mid 20s for several nights, you are usually in good shape.
Is there any part of this that I should not try on my own?
If you are not sure where your backflow is, do not know which valve is the main shutoff, or feel uneasy about air pressure settings, there is no shame in calling a pro. Personally, I think the riskiest part for a beginner is the air blowout connection and pressure control. The rest is mostly careful valve turning and patience.
Once you go through the process one full season, it becomes much easier the next time. Do you feel ready to try a full winterization yourself this year, or does it seem like one of those jobs you would rather hand off after all?