If you live in Colorado Springs, you need a sprinkler blowout before freezing weather hits, or your pipes can crack, your valves can break, and your lawn can suffer later. A proper sprinkler blowout Colorado Springs service uses compressed air to clear water from your irrigation lines, valves, and heads so nothing is left to freeze and expand inside the system.
That is the short version.
Now, the longer and more honest version is that winterizing sprinklers is not very fun, it feels easy to put off, and it can get a bit confusing. Do you really need to do it every year? Can you do it yourself? Is the risk of damage really that high? I used to think people were exaggerating. Then I saw a neighbor replace a big section of PVC after a cold snap because one zone was not fully blown out. The repair bill was not pretty.
Let us walk through how sprinkler blowouts work in Colorado Springs, why they matter so much in this climate, and what you can do to protect your yard without losing your mind over it.
Why sprinkler blowouts matter so much in Colorado Springs
Colorado Springs has a mix of warm fall days and very sudden cold snaps. One afternoon you are wearing a light jacket, and that night the temperature drops hard below freezing. That quick shift is part of what causes trouble for irrigation systems.
Water left in your sprinkler lines can freeze. When water freezes, it expands. That expansion pushes against:
– PVC or poly pipes
– Backflow preventer
– Valves and fittings
– Sprinkler heads
If the system has trapped water, the expanding ice can crack parts of it. Some problems show up right away in spring, like big leaks or zones that will not turn on. Others show up later as weak pressure or wet spots you cannot explain.
If your sprinkler system has underground pipes and you live in Colorado Springs, you should treat a fall blowout as part of normal yearly maintenance, not as an optional extra.
Let me be direct here: skipping a blowout might work once or twice if winter is mild, or if your system naturally drains better than average. But you are gambling against the weather pattern in a city that gets strong overnight freezes. Over time, that gamble tends to lose.
What a sprinkler blowout actually does
A sprinkler blowout is simple in theory. You connect an air compressor to the sprinkler system and push out all the water. In practice, it has a few steps that need care.
Here is the basic idea:
1. Shut off water to the sprinkler system.
2. Connect an air hose to the system at the right spot.
3. Use compressed air to push water out through each zone.
4. Keep going until only air comes out.
5. Protect the backflow preventer and any above-ground pipes.
If this sounds easy, that is fair. It is not complicated plumbing. The risk comes from the details: air pressure, how long you run each zone, and where you connect.
Too much pressure can damage valves or heads. Too little pressure leaves water behind. Leaving the air running too long can overheat the system parts. A rushed job might clear some water but leave enough in low spots to freeze.
The goal of a blowout is not to hit the system with as much air as possible, but to clear water safely from every zone, from the highest head to the lowest sag in the pipe.
DIY blowout or hire a pro?
You can do a sprinkler blowout yourself, but that does not automatically mean you should. I know that is a bit blunt, but this is one of those jobs where a small mistake can cost more than a service visit.
Here is a simple comparison.
| Option | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| DIY blowout |
|
|
| Hire a pro |
|
|
I tend to think if you already own a big enough compressor and you are comfortable with valves and fittings, DIY can make sense. If you would be renting equipment or guessing on pressure, the risk starts to outweigh the savings.
A common mistake I see people make in their thinking is this: they focus only on the cost of the blowout, not the cost of a repair. A cracked backflow preventer can add up fast. So can leaks under a driveway or sidewalk.
When to schedule a sprinkler blowout in Colorado Springs
Timing might be the trickiest part, because the weather in Colorado Springs is unpredictable. Some years you get a long warm fall. Other years, a sudden hard freeze arrives early.
Most homeowners aim for late September through late October. But the exact week can shift. I would not pick a fixed calendar date and stick to it no matter what. That is a bit rigid for the climate here.
Watch for:
– Overnight lows heading toward the low 20s
– A pattern of colder nights, not just one chilly evening
– Forecast of a strong cold front with freezing temps over several days
Sprinkler systems are buried, so they do not freeze the first time the air hits 32°F. It takes repeated cold nights for the frost depth to reach the pipes. But the above-ground parts, like the backflow, are exposed to air temperature. Those can freeze much faster.
A practical rule: finish your blowout before the first real cold snap where nights sit below freezing for several days in a row.
If you hire a company, book early. Many Colorado Springs residents try to schedule in the same two or three weeks, which creates a rush. Waiting until the forecast looks scary can leave you scrambling.
How to prepare your system before the blowout
Whether you do this yourself or hire someone, a little prep work can make things smoother and help you avoid surprises.
1. Locate the main shutoff and backflow
Find out where your sprinkler system connects to your main water. In many Colorado Springs homes, the shutoff is:
– In the basement or utility room
– In a crawl space
– In a pit near the foundation
The backflow preventer is usually outside, in a small group of pipes and valves that rise above ground level. Take a quick photo of it. That way, if something seems off after winter, you have a record of how it looked before.
2. Check your zones in late summer or early fall
Run each zone once before the season ends. Look for:
– Heads that do not pop up
– Weak pressure in parts of the yard
– Obvious leaks, soggy spots, or bubbling
This might feel like extra work, but it helps. If the system has problems, you can fix them before or during the blowout instead of discovering them next spring when you want to water.
3. Clear around sprinkler heads
Trapped grass, soil, or mulch around heads can hold water and dirt. During a blowout, that can clog things or keep water sitting in place.
If you notice heads almost buried, clean around them so they can drain better after the water is blown out.
Step-by-step look at a typical blowout
This is not a full how-to guide, but it should give you a clear sense of what happens, so you can judge whether the work feels manageable for you or if a pro makes more sense.
1. Shut off the water to the sprinkler system
Turn off the main sprinkler shutoff valve. This stops new water from entering the system.
Some setups also have a drain near the shutoff. That can help remove static water from the supply side before you connect the compressor.
2. Attach the air compressor at the right point
Most systems have a blowout port or a fitting meant for air connection. It might be:
– Near the backflow preventer
– Near the main manifold where valves are located
– On the supply line ahead of the valves
Use a proper adapter for the connection. Try not to improvise too much here. A loose or wrong fitting can be dangerous when air pressure builds.
3. Adjust the compressor pressure
This is where many DIY attempts go wrong. High pressure might feel like a faster solution, but it can overstress parts.
Common guidelines you hear:
– Residential sprinklers usually run between 40 and 60 PSI during normal operation
– Blowout pressure is often kept under 80 PSI, and many experts recommend less for certain plastic components
If that sounds too vague, that is exactly the point. Systems differ. Heads differ. A professional tech has a feel for what works for each brand and layout. If you are not sure, lean toward the lower side and give it more time instead of more pressure.
4. Run one zone at a time
Only open one zone while blowing out. The air will push water from that zone through the heads. You will see water at first, then a mist, then almost only air.
Key points:
– Do not run each zone for too long at once, often around 1 to 3 minutes per cycle
– Cycle through the zones more than once to clear leftover pockets
– Let the compressor rest as needed so it does not overheat
If you see heads rattling or making strange high-pitched sounds, the pressure might be too high.
5. Repeat until zones run mostly air
You rarely get every last drop of water, and that is fine. The goal is to remove most of it so any small amount left has space to expand when it freezes.
You can circle back through the zones again, giving each a brief run. You should see less and less water each time.
6. Protect the backflow and exposed parts
After blowout:
– Leave manual drain valves slightly open if your system design calls for it
– Some homeowners wrap the backflow in insulation or cover it with a simple insulated cover
Avoid wrapping it in plastic without breathing holes. That can trap moisture in strange ways.
Common mistakes with sprinkler blowouts
People sometimes treat blowouts as a quick task. “Just hook up air and blast it out.” That attitude is where trouble starts. Here are some mistakes that come up often in Colorado Springs.
Using the wrong air compressor
Small portable compressors used for nail guns often do not move enough air for large yards. They can run constantly without clearing zones well, which overheats both the compressor and possibly sprinkler parts.
Large tow-behind compressors used by professionals have higher volume, not just higher pressure. That difference matters. Volume moves the water out more consistently.
Skipping zones or forgetting drip lines
If you have drip irrigation tied into your system, you cannot treat it exactly like spray heads. Some drip components are not designed for strong air flow. They may need lower pressure or a different draining method.
Also, if you have a side yard or garden that is rarely used, it is easy to forget one small zone when switching the controller. That zone can then stay full of water.
Leaving the controller fully active
Once the blowout is done, most people turn the controller to an “Off” or “Rain” setting. Some forget to adjust it at all.
If the controller accidentally runs in winter while the water is off, valves can click and hum without moving water. That does not usually break the system right away, but it is unnecessary wear.
Not checking for leaks in spring
This one is a bit off-season, but it connects directly to how you judge the quality of your blowout. When you start the sprinkler system again in spring, watch closely for:
– Sudden drops in pressure
– Unusual water pooling
– Zones that do not activate fully
If any of those appear, do not assume it is a simple controller glitch. It might trace back to freeze damage that happened because the prior blowout was incomplete or poorly done.
How blowouts protect your yard, not just the hardware
Most people think of blowouts as a way to avoid repair bills. That is true, but the effects on your yard show up later in the growing season.
Here is how winter care connects to lawn and plant health:
– Fewer underground leaks mean even water coverage in spring and summer
– Healthy pressure across zones prevents dry patches or overwatered areas
– Avoiding pipe breaks under hardscapes prevents long-term soil settling
If a pipe cracks and leaks under your lawn all season, roots near the leak can rot in soggy soil, while distant areas stay thirsty. You may see this as random yellow spots and blame the weather, while the real culprit is a hidden break from winter.
Winter damage to sprinklers often shows up months later as strange watering patterns, patchy grass, or stressed shrubs, not just as obvious geysers in the yard.
When you protect the system in fall, you also protect your yard from those sneaky problems that slowly ruin curb appeal and waste water.
Extra winter tips for Colorado Springs yards
Sprinkler blowouts are one part of winter prep. If you want your yard to bounce back faster in spring, a few more small habits help.
1. Do a final deep watering before shutoff
Before the blowout, schedule one last longer watering cycle if the city and any watering rules allow it. The soil will hold that moisture into early winter.
Deep watering before the ground freezes helps:
– Grass roots stay more stable
– Trees and shrubs handle dry winter air better
Colorado Springs has long periods of dry cold. Moist soil buffers roots from swings in temperature more than dry soil does.
2. Clean up around sprinkler hardware
After the final mow:
– Clear heavy leaves away from known sprinkler heads
– Do not pile rock or mulch over valve boxes
If everything is buried, it is harder to find and service in spring. Plus, thick wet leaf piles can create mold problems in the grass.
3. Mark tricky sprinkler locations
If you have heads near driveways or areas that get snow piled from shoveling, a few small flags can help remind you not to drive or stack heavy ice directly on them.
This is especially helpful for corner lots where snowplows may push extra snow into the yard edge.
How to pick a sprinkler blowout service in Colorado Springs
Not every company handles winterization with the same care. Some just move as fast as possible to get through a long list of homes. You do not need to overthink this, but asking a few direct questions can help.
Here are some things to ask:
- What compressor setup do you use for residential blowouts?
- Do you adjust air pressure based on my system, or use one standard setting?
- Do you include the backflow and any drip zones in the service?
- What happens if I find a freeze-related problem in spring?
If a company gives vague answers or makes it sound like “we just hook up air and let it rip,” I would be cautious. That approach can work, but it can also damage parts quietly.
You can also pay attention to how they handle scheduling and communication. Not because you need some polished corporate style, but because attention to detail on the phone or by email often matches attention to detail in the yard.
What to expect after a proper blowout
Once the system is winterized, there are a few normal things you will see, and a few red flags that might mean something went wrong.
What is normal
– Some sprinkler heads may sit partly open or at odd angles until spring
– Small amounts of water might seep out during or right after the blowout
– The yard may have moist patches where water was discharged
Many people worry that heads not retracting fully after a blowout means damage. That usually fixes itself in spring once water pressure returns.
What is not normal
– Loud popping or cracking sounds during the blowout
– Fittings that leak air strongly near the connection
– Visible damage or splits on above-ground pipes or the backflow right after service
If you see these, do not ignore them and hope for the best. Take photos and contact whoever did the work, or if you did it yourself, shut everything down and assess carefully.
Frequently asked questions about sprinkler blowouts in Colorado Springs
Do I really need a blowout every single year?
In Colorado Springs, I would say yes, unless your system is unusually shallow, minimal, and drains completely by gravity, which is rare. Our freeze cycles are unpredictable. One “easy” winter without blowout can be followed by a harsh one that catches leftover water in the wrong spot.
Skipping a year to save relatively small money can backfire in a big way.
Can I just use the manual drains and skip compressed air?
Some systems have manual drains or automatic drain valves. They help, but they are not perfect. Pipes often have low spots where water sits even after draining. Air gives that extra push.
If you have a very simple, short system, drains might do most of the job. For typical suburban yards with several zones, relying only on drains feels like wishful thinking.
What if I missed the ideal window and it already froze?
If one early freeze surprise hits before you blow out, do not panic. Many systems survive a light freeze because the ground still holds warmth.
Once the weather warms above freezing again, schedule the blowout as soon as you can. That still reduces risk for the rest of winter. Just be aware, if any parts already cracked, you will likely find out in spring when you turn things back on.
Is it safe to run sprinklers after the blowout if the weather warms up again?
No. After you blow out the system, treat it as closed for the season. If you run it again, you refill it with water that can freeze later. If warm weather comes back and you feel tempted to water, use hoses or spot watering instead.
How long does a sprinkler blowout take?
For a typical home in Colorado Springs with three to eight zones, you are usually looking at 20 to 60 minutes of actual work time. Bigger, complex systems with drip irrigation and multiple manifolds can take longer.
If a company finishes in five minutes from start to finish, I would question how much they actually did.
Is it safe to be outside or watch while the tech does the blowout?
Yes, it is usually fine to watch. Just stay clear of the immediate compressor connection and any high-spray zones. The main risk is getting soaked or startled by sudden jets of air and water. Some people like to watch at least the first time so they understand what is happening.
If you handle sprinkler blowouts with a bit of planning and care, you protect both your irrigation system and your yard. Next time fall rolls around and you see the forecast start to dip, what will your winter prep look like?