If you want floors that look sharp, last a long time, and do not drain your budget, working with Lone Star Decorative Concrete Supply Denver is a simple way to get there. They focus on decorative concrete and epoxy, and that means your garage, basement, shop, or even your living room can go from plain gray to something that feels finished and easy to live with.
That is the short version.
The longer version is that floors control how a space feels much more than people expect. When you walk into a place with clean, glossy concrete or a well done epoxy floor, everything else looks better, even if the walls are the same. I used to think floors were just background, but after seeing a few epoxy jobs up close, I changed my mind. The floor kind of sets the tone for the whole room.
In this guide, I want to walk through how these systems work, what choices you have, and where it actually makes sense to spend money. I will lean a bit on personal reactions and real use cases, because product sheets alone do not tell you if a floor feels good to live with.
What Lone Star style floors actually are
When people hear “decorative concrete” or “epoxy” they often think of showrooms or fancy restaurants. That is one part of it, but in practice, most projects are more everyday.
You are usually talking about one of a few things:
- Concrete that is cleaned, repaired, and sealed
- Concrete that is stained or coated with color
- Epoxy or similar coatings that create a new surface on top
The nice part is that you rarely need to tear out the old slab. The existing concrete often becomes the base. That saves time and cost, and it also avoids a big mess inside your house or shop.
Good floor work does not start with color or flakes. It starts with fixing the concrete underneath so the coating actually bonds and stays put.
That sounds a bit boring, but it is true. Prep is the part you almost never see on social media photos, and it is the part that decides if the floor peels in two years or lasts a decade.
Decorative concrete vs epoxy: what is the real difference?
People often lump these together, but they feel and behave differently. If you are trying to decide between them, it helps to see them side by side.
| Option | What it is | Best for | Look and feel |
|---|---|---|---|
| Decorative concrete (stain / dye / sealer) | Treats or lightly coats the existing slab | Basements, patios, light traffic areas | More natural, you still see the concrete character |
| Epoxy floor coating | Resin layers that build a new surface on top | Garages, shops, showrooms, heavy use zones | More finished, smooth, sometimes glossy or flake-heavy |
Decorative concrete is often about bringing out what is already there. You keep the texture, the little variations, the slight mottling. If the slab has some character, this can look great.
Epoxy is more of a reset button. It covers flaws, fills hairline cracks, and builds a new top surface. If your slab is ugly or stained from oil and old glue, that can be a relief.
If you want something that feels like a “surface” on top of concrete, go toward epoxy. If you want the concrete itself to look better, look at stains, dyes, and sealers.
There is a bit of overlap, of course. Some people use tinted epoxy very lightly, some stain first and then apply a clear epoxy on top. Things are not always cleanly separated, and that is fine. The main idea is just knowing how each option behaves in real life.
Where these floors work best
Not every room needs a coated concrete floor. Carpet still has its place. So does tile. But some spaces really benefit from concrete or epoxy work.
Garages
The garage is usually the first place people think about. It also happens to be where epoxy floors make the most sense.
An epoxy garage floor can handle:
- Tire marks and road salt
- Oil drips and chemical spills
- Rolling jacks, tool carts, and heavier loads
On top of that, it is much easier to clean. Dust and sand do not sink in. You sweep or mop, and it is done. I used to dread cleaning my garage, because the bare concrete always looked dirty again. A coated surface holds up better and stays consistent.
Basements
Basements bring a different problem. Moisture. Many basements in the Denver area have some vapor coming through the slab. Carpet over a damp slab can smell bad after a while.
Concrete stain plus a proper sealer, or a vapor-tolerant epoxy system, keeps the surface hard and clean. You can throw down area rugs for comfort. If you get a minor water issue, you move the rugs, fix the problem, and the floor is still fine.
Shops and small commercial spaces
If you run a small workshop, detail shop, or studio, plain concrete can look unfinished. Customers might not say anything, but you can tell when a space feels half done.
A colored epoxy, or a flake broadcast system, gives the room a more deliberate look. You also gain better light reflection. That matters if you work with small parts or detailed projects. The floor can help brighten the room and reduce harsh contrast.
Outdoor patios and walkways
Here it is usually better to stay with breathable systems. Acrylic sealers, stains, or some poly products that handle UV and temperature swings. Epoxy on a hot, sunny patio can yellow or chalk if you pick the wrong product.
Ask directly: “Is this product rated for exterior use in our climate?” If the answer feels vague, push back or look at another system.
I have seen nice looking patio coatings bubble after a year, because the slab moved with freezing and thawing and the coating could not deal with the stress. Matching product to place is half the battle.
Key benefits that actually matter day to day
Marketing copy often goes overboard on benefits. So let us keep this real and simple. Here are the main things that usually matter to homeowners and small business owners.
1. Easier cleaning
Once you seal or coat a floor, dust and dirt sit on the surface instead of sinking in. That sounds minor, but it is a big quality of life change. You spend less time scrubbing. Mopping takes fewer passes. Stains do not hang around as long.
In a garage, you can wipe up oil or fluid spills. In a basement, you are not dealing with concrete dust on everything that touches the floor.
2. Longer floor life
Raw concrete wears over time. You get small pits, spalling, and surface wear from traffic and moisture. A good coating acts like a sacrificial layer. The coating takes the abuse first.
You can recoat after several years if needed, but you are not grinding and patching deep into the slab each time. That saves both money and hassle.
3. Better light and mood
This sounds a bit soft, but it is real. A lighter, slightly reflective floor makes a room feel more open. Your eye reads the space as cleaner, even if nothing else has changed.
If you have a dark garage now with a bare concrete floor, imagine that same space with a light gray or flake epoxy. Tools stand out more. You find dropped screws faster. The whole room feels less like a cave.
4. Safer grip underfoot
Epoxy and sealers can be slick if they are polished and wet. To balance this, installers can broadcast fine grit or flakes into the surface. That creates texture and improves grip.
This matters near doors where snow and water collect. You can tune the amount of grit so it is not harsh on bare feet but still safe with wet shoes.
What the Lone Star style process usually looks like
Every project is a bit different, but most professional floor jobs follow a rough pattern. Knowing the steps helps you understand what you are paying for, and where shortcuts hurt you.
1. Inspection and testing
Before anyone mixes epoxy or stain, they should look at:
- Moisture level in the slab
- Existing coatings, glue, or paint
- Cracks, pits, spalling, or heaving
- Age and general condition of the concrete
Sometimes a simple plastic sheet test can give a quick sense of moisture. Other times, a proper meter is better. If moisture is high, certain products are off the table or need extra steps.
2. Surface prep
This is the unglamorous part. It also decides if the coating sticks. Prep can include:
- Grinding the surface with diamond tooling
- Shot blasting for heavy coatings or bad slabs
- Cleaning oil spots with degreasers
- Opening up cracks and filling them with repair material
Think of it this way. Coatings like to grab onto clean, slightly rough surfaces. Glossy old paint, dust, or sealer residue acts like a release layer. If someone wants to skip grinding entirely, that is usually a red flag.
3. Priming and base coats
After prep, the first layer goes down. For epoxy floors, this is usually a primer coat. It wets into the concrete and helps later coats grip. It can also reveal small pinholes and defects that need more filling.
Next come one or more build coats. For a flake floor, flakes are broadcast into a wet coat until the surface is fully covered. For a solid color, material is rolled and back rolled to keep the thickness even.
4. Topcoat and finish
Once color and texture are set, a topcoat seals everything in. This might be a UV-stable polyaspartic or polyurethane, or another robust resin that resists wear and yellowing.
The topcoat controls:
- Gloss level (matte, satin, glossy)
- Scratch resistance
- Chemical resistance
- Slip resistance if grit is added
A good installer will ask how you plan to use the space before picking a topcoat. A garage where you weld or grind metal might need more scratch resistance than a quiet storage room.
Common questions people ask before they commit
How long does it take?
Most residential projects finish in 2 to 4 days, depending on:
- How much grinding and repair work is needed
- Number of coats
- Cure times for the products used
Some faster curing systems can be walked on within 24 hours and driven on in 48 to 72 hours. Slower systems may ask for more patience. Fast is not always better, but it is nice when the schedule lines up with your life.
Can I do it myself?
You can, but the result often matches the prep and tools you have. Big box store kits are tempting. They look simple: etch, roll, done. In reality, slabs are not all the same. Some are dense, some are soft, some are full of old stuff that resists bonding.
If you like projects and you are honest about the risk, a DIY coating can be a learning experience. Just do not expect it to match a pro job on a tricky floor. There is a reason installers invest in grinders, vacuums, and moisture testing.
Will it peel?
Anything can peel if prep is poor or moisture is ignored. When floors fail early, it is usually one of these causes:
- Oil or grease not fully removed before coating
- Moisture pressure pushing from under the slab
- Cheap, thin coatings that cannot flex or grip well
- Coating over an unstable layer like old paint or failing sealer
A good installer is almost boring about testing and cleaning. They spend more time fixing what is under the floor than people expect. In my view, that “boring” mindset is what you want.
Costs: what you actually pay for
Prices vary with size, products, and prep level, but there are some patterns that help you get a sense of what is going on.
| Factor | How it affects cost |
|---|---|
| Square footage | Larger spaces have higher total cost but lower price per square foot |
| Prep difficulty | Heavy grinding, removal of old coatings, and crack repair increase labor |
| Product type | High solids epoxy and premium topcoats cost more than basic kits |
| Design options | Flakes, metallic effects, and patterns add time and materials |
If one quote is much lower than others, ask what they are skipping. Less grinding? Thinner coats? No moisture testing? I think it is better to pay a bit more once than to redo the whole thing in three years.
Design choices that actually work in real homes
Floor design can spiral into endless options. It does not have to. There are a few patterns that tend to look good and age well.
Neutral gray or beige with flakes
This is common for garages for a reason. It hides dirt, looks clean, and matches most wall colors. Flakes break up tire marks and small scuffs. If you plan to sell the house at some point, neutral colors are safer.
Solid color for shops and studios
A solid light gray, white, or soft color can make a studio or shop feel more like a work space and less like a storage room. You see dropped items easily. Layout lines are visible. Maintenance is simple.
Stained concrete for basements
Warm browns, soft grays, or layered stain effects give basements a more “finished” look without making them feel like a showroom. Add a satin sealer and some rugs, and you get a comfortable space that handles spills.
Metallic or high gloss for show areas
If you want something bold, metallic epoxy can look striking. Swirls, depth, and movement in the color can turn the floor into a feature. The only catch is that you need to be honest about daily wear. High gloss shows dust and scratches more. For a main family mudroom, that might get tiring.
Questions to ask before you pick an installer
Not every contractor works the same way. Some are careful and methodical, others rush. Here are practical questions you can ask that go beyond just “How much?”
- “How will you test for moisture in my slab?”
- “What surface prep tools will you use, and why?”
- “What is the total system build? Primer, base, flakes, topcoat, thickness?”
- “What products are you using? Can I see the technical sheets?”
- “How soon can I walk, move furniture, and park on the floor?”
- “What common problems do you see in floors like mine, and how do you deal with them?”
Notice that these are not trick questions. They just help you see if the installer has a clear process or if they are winging it. Someone who handles floors all the time will have direct answers, maybe with a few stories about past jobs.
Maintenance: what you actually need to do
Once the floor is done, you do not need a complex routine. Still, there are a few habits that keep it looking good longer.
Day to day
- Sweep or dust mop on a regular schedule
- Clean spills soon rather than later, especially chemicals
- Use a neutral cleaner, not a harsh acid or strong solvent
Over time, grit from outside can scratch a coating like sandpaper. Simple sweeping cuts that risk down a lot.
Year to year
- Check high traffic zones for dull spots or wear
- Look for chips near door thresholds where impacts are common
- Ask about recoat options if the floor starts to look tired
Recoat work is much easier than a full redo, as long as the base is still solid. A light scuff and new topcoat can bring back gloss and protection.
A quick reality check: where these floors are not magic
I think concrete and epoxy floors are strong options, but they are not perfect for every situation.
- They are hard underfoot. If you stand for hours, you may still want mats.
- They do not fix structural problems. If the slab is moving or heaving, that needs its own solution.
- They can scratch and chip under heavy abuse. No coating is indestructible.
- Some people simply prefer soft flooring, and that is fine.
Sometimes, carpet in a bedroom is still a better call. Or tile in a bathroom. The goal is not to use concrete and epoxy everywhere, but to use them where they make the most sense.
Closing thoughts, and a common question
Upgrading your floors with concrete coatings or epoxy is not just about looks. It changes how you use the space. You park the car and do not worry about drips. Kids can play on a clean basement floor. A small workshop starts to feel like a serious work area instead of a corner of the garage.
Done right, these floors are not fussy. You live on them, work on them, and clean them when needed. That is about it.
Question: Is an epoxy or decorative concrete floor really worth the cost?
Answer: It depends on how you use the space and how long you plan to stay. If you just want a short term cosmetic fix before selling, a cheap paint might feel enough, but it often looks tired fast. If you use the space daily and want a floor that holds up, an epoxy or well sealed decorative concrete surface usually pays off in comfort, lower cleaning effort, and fewer repairs over time.
The key is matching the system to your slab and your habits. If those are aligned, the floor tends to feel less like a splurge and more like one of those upgrades you wish you had done earlier.