You choose the best contractor by shortlisting three to five local pros, checking license and insurance, reviewing real project photos, meeting on-site, getting itemized bids with the same scope, calling at least three recent clients, and signing a clear contract with payment tied to milestones. That is the whole playbook. If you want a vetted landscaping contractor to compare against your list, start there, then keep reading for the details that separate a smooth project from a headache.
Get clear on what you want them to build
This part sounds simple. It rarely is. A good contractor can help shape your ideas, but you still need a starting point that fits your yard and your budget.
Write down your must-haves and your nice-to-haves. Be honest about how you use the space. Do you host a lot? Do you need a safe area for kids or a dog? I like to walk the yard with coffee early in the morning and again around sunset. The light shows me where I will actually sit, not where a catalog says I should.
- Function: patio for dining, path for trash cans, gate for access, shade for naps.
- Hardscape: patio, walkway, edging, retaining walls, steps.
- Softscape: lawn areas, planting beds, trees, groundcovers.
- Water: drainage, downspout extensions, grading, dry creek, French drains.
- Utilities: irrigation, lighting, outlets, hose bibs.
- Extras: fire pit, seating walls, pergola, water feature.
Write a one-page scope. Short is fine. Clear beats long. Your bids will be better because of it.
Build a shortlist without getting lost
Ask neighbors with yards you like. Check local reviews. Look for consistent patterns, not just the star rating. A few average reviews from five days ago can matter more than one glowing review from five years ago.
Aim for three to five companies. Fewer and you risk missing the right fit. Too many and the details blur together.
What to look for in that first scan
- Real photos of projects in your area, not stock images.
- Clear service range and crew size. Backyard makeovers need more than a one-person crew.
- License number shown on the site or truck, if your state requires it.
- Proof of insurance on request. Ask for a certificate with your name on it.
- Responsiveness. If they reply fast now, they usually communicate well later.
If a company is too busy to reply or schedule you, believe them. Your project will wait too.
License, insurance, and permits
I know, paperwork is boring. It also protects you when things go sideways. And sometimes they do. You do not need drama. You need coverage.
| Item | Why it matters | How to verify |
|---|---|---|
| State or city license | Shows the company passed basic rules and can pull permits | Check your state or city contractor portal by company name |
| General liability insurance | Covers damage to your property from their work | Ask for a certificate naming you as certificate holder |
| Workers comp | Covers worker injuries so you are not liable | Get a current certificate from their broker |
| Permit handling | Many projects need permits or call-before-you-dig | Ask who pulls permits and who calls utility locate |
Some small jobs need no permit. A simple planting day, for example. But walls, grade changes, gas lines, or new irrigation often do. I prefer when the contractor handles permits. If they do not, at least make them list which ones are needed. No guessing.
Portfolio and style fit
A company can be great at formal gardens and still struggle with a relaxed native look. Or the other way around. Style fit matters more than many people think.
Ask for three projects that match your goals. Not just their favorites. Look for repeating details that show craft: clean soldier-course edging, tight joint lines, consistent slope away from the house, plant spacing that allows for growth. If you see a lot of fresh mulch hiding gaps, ask why.
Questions to ask about their photos
- How old is this project and how has it held up?
- Who designed it, and who installed it?
- What challenges came up on this site? Drainage, roots, slope?
- What would you do differently if you built it again?
Judge by outcomes after one or two seasons, not day-one glamour shots.
Meet on-site and walk the property
A quick call is fine for screening. The real signal comes from the on-site visit. Watch how they move through the space. Do they look at downspouts and low spots? Do they measure grades or just eyeball it? Do they talk about future growth of plants or only how it looks today?
I keep a small checklist and a tape measure. Not to test them. To keep the talk grounded.
- Ask how water leaves your yard during heavy rain.
- Ask where materials will stage and how they will protect grass.
- Ask who the foreman is and if you can meet them before the start.
- Ask how long the crew will be on-site each day.
- Ask what the plan is if they hit rock or roots.
Get itemized bids that match the same scope
This part is where people get frustrated. Two bids can look wildly different because the scope is different. You need apples to apples. That phrase gets overused, but it is true here.
| Scope line | Bid A | Bid B | Key details to match |
|---|---|---|---|
| Patio size and material | 350 sq ft, concrete pavers | 350 sq ft, concrete pavers | Paver model, color, base depth, edge restraint |
| Base prep | 6 in compacted gravel | 4 in compacted gravel | Gravel depth, compaction method, geotextile fabric |
| Drainage | French drain, 4 in pipe, gravel | None | Pipe size, fabric wrap, daylight outlet |
| Planting | 12 shrubs, 3 trees, compost blend | 8 shrubs, 2 trees, topsoil only | Species, container size, amendments, spacing |
| Irrigation | 6 zones, smart controller | 5 zones, basic controller | Head types, controller model, rain sensor |
Ask for a single-page price summary plus a line-item sheet. Then ask for an alternate or two. For example, the same patio with a different paver, or the same plant layout with fewer trees but larger sizes. Choices help you shape cost without gutting the plan.
Understand pricing models and payments
Most companies price fixed bid with progress payments. Some jobs run on time and materials. I like fixed bids for clear scopes. Time and materials can work for phased or discovery-heavy work like renovation in old yards. There is no one right answer for every yard.
Common payment structures
- Deposit at signing, then two or three milestone payments, balance at completion.
- Smaller deposit with a larger mid-project payment once hardscape is set.
- Time and materials billed weekly with a not-to-exceed cap.
Keep deposits modest. Enough to reserve your spot and cover early orders. Not the whole job. Never pay the final balance until the punch list is done. If a company asks for full payment far in advance, I pause. Maybe walk away.
Tie payments to milestones you can see: demo done, base installed, pavers laid, plants in, cleanup complete.
Warranties and aftercare
Ask how long they back their work and what is covered. Hardscape often carries a multi-year warranty on workmanship. Plants often carry one growing season, sometimes more with a maintenance plan. Controllers and lights come with manufacturer terms.
- Hardscape: ask about settling repair, loose pavers, cracked mortar, heaving.
- Plants: ask about replacement rules, watering proof, exclusions for weather or pets.
- Irrigation: ask about broken heads, winterization, spring startup.
- Lighting: ask about connections, transformer sizing, bulb replacements.
Have them hand you a watering and care guide on day one of planting. A crew can build well and still lose plants if aftercare is ignored. I like a 10-minute lesson by the controller with me holding the phone and recording.
Permits, utilities, and site protection
Before digging, someone must call the utility locate line. Ask to see the ticket. It is free to mark lines. It prevents serious problems that no one wants.
Protecting your yard is not just a nice touch. It saves you money later. Temporary plywood over grass for wheelbarrows. Silt fence near drains. Clean sweep daily so nails and cuttings do not end up in tires or paws.
Communication and project management
Many homeowners are fine with a few changes. They want to know those changes in plain words, on the day they happen. That is it.
Ask who your daily contact is. Ask how you will receive updates. Text with photos, a shared folder, or a weekly check-in. Any of those work. Silence does not.
What a good weekly update includes
- What got done this week, with photos.
- What is next and when materials show up.
- Any changes to cost or scope, with a written change order.
- Open questions for you to answer within 24 hours.
A small delay is fine. A surprise bill is not. Keep changes in writing and priced before work shifts.
Red flags that signal future trouble
One red flag is rarely a deal breaker. Two or three together tell a story. Trust what you see.
- No license or they dodge the question.
- Insurance certificate that is expired.
- All talk, no site measurements.
- Poor cleanup during other jobs in your neighborhood.
- Refuses to give recent references.
- Quotes that are far below others with no reason.
- Pushes for cash only or large upfront payment.
References that actually help
Do not just ask if they were happy. Ask questions that pull out facts. I keep it short so people answer.
- What work did they do for you and when?
- How close was the final price to the bid and why?
- How was communication during delays or surprises?
- Did anything fail after the first heavy rain or freeze?
- Would you hire them again and for what size project?
If you can, drive by a project that is at least a year old. Look at the edges, joints, and how water moves. It tells you more than any brochure.
Design help: in-house or outside designer
Some contractors have strong design teams. Others prefer working from a plan by a designer. Both paths can work. I think the best path depends on project size and complexity.
- Small to mid projects can be handled in-house with sketches and markups.
- Large or sloped yards benefit from a full plan and grading details.
- Plant-heavy yards with a theme can use a plant schedule and bloom calendar.
Ask to see a sample plan. Ask how they handle changes during build. Good design is not a straight line. You might move a path two feet when you see it staked out. That is normal.
Materials, sourcing, and lead times
Choices can speed a project or slow it. Pick available pavers, stone, and plants early. Some colors take weeks. Some trees sell out every spring. If you pick a rare stone, be ready to wait. If you do not like waiting, pick from what is in stock.
| Material | Typical lead time | Watch outs |
|---|---|---|
| Pavers | 2 to 4 weeks | Color batch variation, edge restraint type |
| Natural stone | 1 to 6 weeks | Thickness variance, pallet availability |
| Plants | Immediate to 3 weeks | Container size, seasonal stock, heat stress in transport |
| Irrigation parts | 1 to 2 weeks | Controller model, rain sensor, backflow device |
| Lighting | 1 to 3 weeks | Transformer capacity, cable gauge, bulbs vs integrated |
Drainage and grading are the hidden heroes
Pretty patios fail if water has no path. Ask how the design handles a two-inch rain. Ask where water goes when the ground is saturated. Look for at least a small pitch away from the house. Ask if they will set a string line or laser level. A builder who talks about slope and soil is thinking ahead.
Native and low-water planting
I like mixing natives with adapted plants. Your yard gets lower water needs and more life. Birds, pollinators, and fewer headaches. This is not about being perfect. It is about picking plants that want to live where you live.
- Use trees and shrubs to set structure first.
- Layer perennials in drifts, not ones and twos scattered everywhere.
- Choose groundcovers for bare soil to cut weeds.
- Ask for a simple care calendar for the first year.
The first year is about roots. The second year is about growth. The third year is about low maintenance.
Irrigation, lighting, and add-ons that pay off
A small upgrade can make the yard easier to live with. Not fancy. Just smart.
- Irrigation: pressure-regulated heads, matched precipitation, smart controller with rain skip.
- Lighting: low-glare path lights, warm color temp, fewer fixtures aimed well.
- Edging: sturdy edge restraint that holds shape for years.
- Soil: real compost, not just a thin dusting, blended to planting depth.
Ask for model numbers and warranty details in your bid. That keeps quality from sliding during install.
Scheduling and seasonality
Spring fills fast. Fall installs often root better. Summer can work if watering is careful. Winter installs for hardscape can be fine if the ground is workable and base is compacted correctly. A good contractor will be honest about timing. If a date slips, I ask for a revised schedule in writing, not just a vague promise.
Site rules that keep neighbors happy
Your project lives in a community. A little planning avoids friction. I have made these rules part of the contract:
- Work hours and noisy tasks window.
- Where trucks park and where materials stage.
- Daily cleanup and dumpster plan.
- No blocking sidewalks or driveways without notice.
A real-world example
Last spring, I met a homeowner who wanted a patio, path, and a simple planting plan. Three bids came in. One was cheap. It skipped base depth and drainage. One was high. It included a complex water feature he never asked for. The third matched the scope and explained trade-offs.
He picked the third. They added a French drain along a soggy edge, bumped the base from 4 inches to 6 inches, and swapped a few plant species for ones that fit the shade. The project cost a little more than the lowest bid. The first heavy rain came two weeks later. The patio stayed dry. No puddles. He sent me a photo of his kids drawing with chalk on it. Hard to argue with that.
What a strong contract includes
- Scope tied to a drawing or sketch with dimensions.
- Materials listed by model, color, and size.
- Start window and estimated duration.
- Payment schedule linked to milestones.
- Change order process in writing, with pricing before work shifts.
- Warranty terms for hardscape, plants, and gear.
- Permit and utility locate responsibility.
- Daily site protection and cleanup plan.
Simple language wins here. If you cannot explain a line to a friend in a sentence, ask for a rewrite. Legalese hides risk. Clarity lowers it.
Checklist you can use
Print this, or just copy and paste into your notes.
- Define must-haves, nice-to-haves, and budget range.
- Shortlist 3 to 5 local companies with strong, recent reviews.
- Verify license, insurance, and workers comp.
- Walk the yard with each bidder. Ask about water movement.
- Get itemized bids with the same scope and materials.
- Call 3 recent references with short, direct questions.
- Pick a contractor whose style and communication fit you.
- Sign a clear contract with milestones and warranty.
- Confirm permit plan and utility locate ticket.
- Record a quick video lesson for irrigation and lighting.
A few places people overpay or underpay
Overpaying is not always about price. It can be paying for the wrong thing.
- Overpay: designer pavers on a thin base. Better to pick a standard paver and a deeper base.
- Overpay: too many small plants that need constant care. Better to buy fewer, larger anchor plants.
- Underpay: drainage. Cheap here costs you twice later.
- Underpay: soil prep. Healthy soil saves on water and plant replacement.
Communication scripts you can borrow
Use these lines to keep talks simple.
- “Please price the patio at 350 square feet with 6 inches of compacted gravel and geotextile fabric.”
- “List plant species, container sizes, and spacing in the bid.”
- “Add an alternate for the same patio using [second paver model] so I can compare.”
- “Send a certificate of insurance with my name as certificate holder.”
- “Tie payments to these milestones: demo, base set, hardscape complete, planting complete, final walkthrough.”
Why the cheapest bid often costs more
Low bids sometimes come from skipped steps. Thin base, no fabric, bad compaction. Those shortcuts show up later as sinking edges, pooling, or weeds inside joints. You pay twice. I do not mind a low bid if it explains how it got low. Fewer features, a smaller area, or a simple material can be fine. Missing prep work is not.
Scope creep and how to control it
Halfway through a project, you might see a chance to add a path or change a plant bed. That is normal. Treat it like a mini project inside the project.
- Write the change in one sentence.
- Get a price and time impact before work starts.
- Approve in writing. A text is fine if both agree.
- Update the milestone schedule if needed.
Cleanup and punch list
The last day sets the memory of the whole project. Ask for a punch list walkthrough. Bring blue tape for small marks. Walk the site in daylight and again at dusk if lights were installed. Run irrigation and check each zone. Bring a hose and test drainage spots with water if you need to.
My small biases, in case you care
I like compacted gravel bases that are a little thicker than minimum. I like plant spacing that looks a bit sparse on day one so it looks right in year three. I prefer simple lighting with warm color and no glare. I think smart controllers are worth it in most yards. You might disagree on one or two of those, and that is fine. Your yard, your rules.
Your first email template to send
Copy, edit, and send to two or three companies.
“Hi, I live at [address]. I want a 350 sq ft paver patio, a 30 ft path, and a simple planting plan for the back yard. Budget range is [X to Y]. I can meet on-site [days]. Please confirm license and insurance, and send two recent jobs with references. I want an itemized bid with materials listed by model and base depth. Thanks.”
A short word on timing and patience
Good crews are booked. You might wait a few weeks. That wait can be a good sign. If a company can start tomorrow in peak season, ask why. Of course, sometimes a gap opens and you get lucky. Just do not let a schedule promise make you skip checks.
Frequently asked questions
How many bids should I get?
Three is a sweet spot. Two can work if both are detailed and from strong companies. More than five turns into noise and delays your project.
What is a fair deposit?
Enough to hold your slot and order materials. Many solid companies ask for 10 to 30 percent. Very large deposits are a red flag in most cases.
Should I hire a separate designer?
For complex grading, walls, or large planting plans, a designer can pay for themselves. For a simple patio and a few beds, a skilled contractor can design and build well. I would choose based on project size and your comfort with design decisions.
How do I compare pavers or stone?
Start with base prep, not the surface. Then compare thickness, color, texture, and edge restraint. Ask where it is stocked. If a color is backordered, pick a second choice now so you have a fallback.
How do I protect my yard during construction?
Put protection in the contract. Plywood paths for wheelbarrows, tarps for soil piles, and daily cleanup. Agree on a staging area before the first day.
What about plants during heat or frost?
Ask for planting timing, watering plan, and a pause plan if temps spike or drop. Good teams will shift the schedule a bit rather than risk plant loss.
Do I need irrigation?
Not every yard needs a full system. If large planted areas are part of your plan, irrigation helps them establish. A simple hose plan can work for small beds if you stay consistent for the first season.
How do I know if the drainage plan is solid?
Ask them to show you the path water will take, not just tell you. They should point to grades, outlets, and how it ties to downspouts. If they cannot explain it on site, they probably did not design it yet.
What is the best season to install?
Fall is great for planting in many regions. Spring is popular for full builds. Winter can work for hardscape if the ground is workable. The best time is the one when the crew you trust can focus on your job and the material you picked is available.
What if the bid is higher than my budget?
Phase the work. Build the patio and drainage first. Plant later. Or swap materials where it hurts less. Keep the bones strong. It is better to do less well than more poorly.